It has been a couple of weeks since our big move and we are getting settled in to our new apartment.
Here is a sneak peak at me new sewing room!
I still have some cleaning and organizing but it is getting there. I now have a large closet to house my fabrics, however that little pup-pup keeps climbing right in and helping himself.
Most of this was just transplanted from my last apartment but I want to share the older posts on the curtains and cutting/pressing table.
I also wanted to share this fantastic print called “Alice’s Sewing Basket” from artist Jillian Nickell. I bought the print at the Art Star Craft Bazaar in Philly last spring but finally found a frame and got a mat cut for it. Looking back at her etsy page now I remember how much I enjoy all of her work, hmmm I may need to purchase some more of her prints.
The moving process has been quite successful and I may be able to share the new living room with you soon but I still need to pick up a few more pieces (great craigslist coffee table coming today!) So check back soon.
I have been in the midst of packing to move so I have been quite busy and probably won’t have too many frequent posts for a while until we get settled in to our new place in upstate NY.
Anyway while thinking about the unavoidable cold winter I decided that I would like a new coat. A purple coat that is! While I have been sorting and packing I uncovered a pattern that I already have – Simplicity 2311. Thankfully I have a nice heavier fabric to do a mock up so I am sure I will be updating when I get there.
Ideally, I wanted this project to be fairly low cost and thankfully found some wool in my stash. It was actually a heavy woven drapery wool that the designer gave to me from work. I love when the remnants are too small for most home dec projects but just right for clothing!
The only problem was the natural creaminess of the fabric:
Now I figured alright – free wool I can try to dye this right? Well I figured something like this I should do a little research since my extensive dyeing knowledge involves throwing a box of RIT in the wash…
Most people recommend acid dyes for wools and I found Dharma Trading offered quite a selection of colors. Frankly when push came to shove I didn’t feel like ordered the dye and after consulting my dear friend Robin from Sew Loud I just went with the Rit anyway.
The person who wrang me out at Joann’s even tried to talk me out of using the Rit on the wool but I I read the instructions carefully and was determined with enough heat and vinegar I would make this work!
Now THAT is purple!
I am in love with the color it turned out to be – I used 2 bottles of the purple with a half bottle of wine. I used the washing machine as a large tub and let it fill with hot water while I use a broom handle to carefully agitate the dye bath to help the color stay even. I did not want to accidently felt the wool so I had to carefully choose my settings to let it rinse and drain. Thankfully due to a very wet basement and washer issues in the past we have a manual washer where you can turn the dial and have much more control over the machine versus one of those fancy HE machines. Warning to anyone with a moist basement… don’t get a washer that is automated because the sensors will short out in a year or two…
Alrighty that is it for today and I will keep you posted on WINTER COAT PROJECT 2013.
Seriously I have been trying to update but WordPress just does not agree with me all of the time. Is it firefox maybe?
Anyway, last time we chatted I had made my pseudo victorian corset for the upcoming festivities… which happened to be today!
So in a few short weeks I had to make my bustle cage plus the actual outfit… I went sans petticoat (this is a judgement free zone so please don’t be shocked.)
bustle cage check! Super easy and took half an hour! pretty much just made a large trapezoid and sewed channels – popped in more cable ties and added ribbon to tie the edges together (making rounded shape.) Added a ruffle and a waist band and called it a day.
pretty sure a proper victorian lady would also wear gym shorts…
I looked at a lot of fashion plates pictures trying to come up with a design for my outfit. I love the more tailored look of the late bustle period so I aimed for something like that.
I am much shorter than my dress form so the proportions are off but you get the idea. It was a new idea for me to flat-line rather than bag-line the jacket. The fabric was stretchy so flat-lining would give it more of the body I wanted, thankfully I thought of the easiest/quickest way to flat-line while giving me the look I wanted – thank you fusible black woven interfacing.
My facings were just quickly cut from scraps and I slap-dashed the rest of the jacket together. Historically it should have been boned in a few places but I just added boning on the side seams (whipped under the seam allowance.)
I also love playing with the subtle stripes!
In conclusion – I had a super fabulous time playing dress up and making this outfit. I did kind of a slap-dash job near the end but I didn’t have to go naked to the party and it was my first shot a historic costume. I did do a lot of research for inspiration and trying to plan out seam lines but obviously this was also loosely based on history, we will just call it my interpretation.
Woohoo, I am well on my way to building the proper foundation for my bustle dress.
In my last post I showed my mock-up but now I actually have a lacing corset ready.
I am getting terrible light right now so apologies for the crappy pic!
I used cotton duck and faced the corset with a white sateen and added ivory sateen boning channels.
This was a fun project that just shows what boning really does to a garment.
This pic was taken before the grommets were in (just used knit fabric in the back.) The right side of the picture (my left) has cheapy cable ties as bones whiles the left side is unboned for the moment. The job of the boning is to keep the fabric from collapsing and wrinkling, you can see quite the difference between the two sides.
For my binding I wanted to add a little lace trim on top. I cut 1.5″ bias strips and sewed my lace on with using the edge of my presser foot as a guide.
Once the lace was sewn on I pressed the seam allowance back to the edge of seam (1/4″) and then pressed the remaining side in to meet raw edges.
Fold and pressed at the edge joint and voila!
Trim that can be topstitched on in one step! The folding method leaves a large enough lip on the wrong side that you won’t have to worry about catching it with your topstitching.
Of course after sewing the binding on I realized that I had initially put a bone in my placket hiding my zipper… and it fell out. Soo my placket isn’t quite as lovely and wrinkle free as I had hoped but I may go back quickly pop it back in, we’ll see. I am still pretty pleased with my end result.
I am taking a fantastical journey into a realm of sewing that I have barely dabbled in before. After years of watching my friends dress up fabulously in period garments and prance around in wonderful fashions while I am wearing jeans and a t-shirt… I decided to venture out of my comfort zone. For an upcoming event I have the chance and reason to dress up in a Victorian costume. For those of you who don’t know that means of have my choice of giant hoop skirt, giant bustle, giant sleeves or any combination there of. While the Queen had quite a long rule fashion was also thrown into hyper-drive thanks to the widespread acceptance of the glorious sewing machine.
I have chosen to dive into the bustle era’s…however it turns out there is 3 so I still have some research/narrowing down to do.
Anyway I figured I needed to get started somewhere and no costume would be right without the correct silhouette. Thanks to a great tip from Robin of Sewloud I was able to draft my own corset with the great tutorial and information from Foundations Revealed.
After many measurements taken and many lines drawn I had a pattern that was pretty spot on and just need a minor tweak.
I did a quick mock-up (my dress form shall model for me)
Now keep in mind that I am much shorter than this dress form so it fits me much better. Since I needed to do a quick mock-up but could not find and tips for shortcuts I just made things up along the way… I had some terrible plastic boning lying around that I just taped into place along a few seam lines. For the real thing I will be using spiral steel. I did not want to cut holes and try lacing the back so I grabbed some super stretchy powernet that I had and just sewed a 2″ strip on the back where typically grommets and lacing would go.
You can also see that I am missing a busk in the front, this is something I plan on avoiding while using the non period correct zipper… because I can.
I added an extra 1.5″ to one of my Center Front pieces and adjusted the width of the other to create a overlap to hide my zipper. I did actually find a few pictures of 1870-80′s corsets that had a placket concealing the busk anyway.
anyway so far this has been a fun project – any corset making tips out there for me?
I just got home from work and ready to start my weekend I opened up my pinterest page… (how else should I be kicking off my weekend?)
What did I see pop up? This $175 “hat” from Rag and Bone
That is not a hat! That is a wool capeline with trim wrapped around it. A capeline is just a basic wide brimmed hat foundation that is steamed and shaped into it’s finished look. Alright so maybe the crown has been blocked a little but it just brings back memories of the floppy hat look ala Ms. Lopez…
compare to this capeline to make a finished hat at Judith M Supply:
If I picked up dough from the super market, brought it home and stuck a tomato on top… that doesn’t make it pizza.
Generally the shoe stores and I do not get along… at all.
Today however I was pleasantly surprised with the fall styles coming in. When shopping I have 3 distinct things that my shoes must fill – size – 1.) 5.5-6 which is harder than you may think to find shoes that actually fit. 2.) Vegan – I just can’t deal with leather which limits my choices quite a bit. 3.) Comfort and Construction – why oh why are there always adorable ballet flats with no support that the fabric will just shred within 3 hours from at the toes?!?!?! grrrrrrr
Anyway enough ranting – I found something beautiful today!
OH how I love that classic brogue style. Perhaps it just reminds my of my saddle shoes when I was younger. But look at them, classic, t-strap and small wedge! I am sadly not one for heels although I am quite lacking in the height department… I max out around 1.5″ heels. I did try on a couple of cute brogue styles but these actually had some nice support to them. Thank you DSW for showing these to me.
After my shopping trip I decided I would do a quick search for similar styles… I may also need these:
thank you so much MODCloth